Knowing the right way to approach a strange dog will go a long way toward ensuring your safety, and the safety of those around you. At the same token, knowing how not to approach one can do the same. Children should also be educated of the correct procedure. Some of their little innocent ways can trigger an otherwise well-behaved dog into aggressiveness and worse, biting.

Dogs normally bite for one of three reasons: Indiscriminate biting, fear biting, and protective biting.

Indiscriminate Biting

Knowing which type of biter you are confronted with depends on the situation you are in at the time. For instance, if you are walking along the sidewalk in a residential street, minding your own business, and a dog suddenly leaves his yard, runs directly at you and bites, this is indiscriminate biting. This is a spoiled dog that is probably the dictator in his household. He is the type of dog that merely allows his family to co-exist with him in the house. It could be any breed, from a Toy Chihuahua to a Giant Schnauzer.

Fortunately, dogs that fall into this category are in the minority and are usually confined and restricted because the owners are fully aware of the their bad behavior. Undoubtedly, they probably have been the recipients of occasional bites from their own dogs whenever the animals didn't get their way.

Fear Biting

The fear biter falls into another category because his demeanor could be genetically inherited, or he could be a product of under-socialization with different types of people and situations when he was a puppy. He could be in a panic-stricken mind at the time of the bite.

A friendly but injured dog, he could suddenly become a fear biter depending on the circumstances. If you stop on the highway to rescue a dog that has been struck by a car, the dog may think that you are the one who hit him, rather than understand that you are there to rescue him.

Protective Biting

Finally, a protective biter is one that's unable to reason any farther than the fact that he feels the need to protect someone or something. Usually, the protective biter is in the group known as the working breeds. That is, dogs whose ancestors were originally bred to herd livestock or to protect properties and real estate. Most dogs have this protective instinct but it seems to manifest more predominantly within the working group.

Learning comes simply and naturally when you teach puppies to associate certain words and behaviors. That's where talking to them and spending lots of time with them come in. Dogs are capable of learning an extensive vocabulary simply by watching and listening to you.

For instance, your puppy will quickly learn that when you put on a certain pair of shoes, it's time for a walk. The pup is primed to respond to you, so teach a phrase to to go along with the action, such as "Let's go for a walk," or "Let's go for a car ride."

When you see your puppy performing an action that you want it to learn to do on command - sit, down, come or dance - give it a name. Every time you see your puppy sitting, even if you didn't tell it to, say "good sit." Do the same thing if you see it lying down, chewing on a toy, coming toward you or not barking. It won't take long before you can say "sit" or "down" and have your pup respond correctly.

According to psychologists, this is called contiguity learning, meaning the word comes to be a symbol of the action in the dog's mind. Basically, it's a fancy phrase for learning-by-doing.

Contiguity learning, ratcheted up a notch, is perfect for housetraining. Say you have a dog that cannot seem to learn that pottying in the house isn't permitted, no matter how much you praise it when it goes outside. Gain the dog's attention by going a step beyond praise as it potties. Give one click with a clicker, snap your fingers or jingle your keys as the pup potties (choose a single sound to use). Then give praise and a treat. The sensory addition of sound and taste can sometimes be just enough motivation to get your point across and make it stick.

4 Common Mistakes To Avoid

It's easy to inadvertently encourage puppy behavior problems or make them worse. Here are some ways new puppy owners can become their own worst enemies:

1) Giving a puppy too much freedom too soon.

2) Allowing misbehavior to become a habit.

3) Letting a puppy think it's the one in charge.

4) Refusing to use a crate because it seems cruel.

Like children, puppies need structure and rules; praise when they do right corrections when they make a mistake; and a place they can go to feel safe. By showing your puppy what you want, keeping it on a schedule, rewarding it for good behavior, and providing a crate or safe room where it can stay when you can't supervise - thus preventing destructive behavior - you'll give it the framework it needs to become a super companion.

Harnesses & Halters - Better Leash Control By Using Body Harnesses & Head Halters

You may want to consider having your puppy use a body harness instead of a collar, especially for smaller-sized dogs. Body harnesses are secured with adjustable straps that fasten across the puppy's chest and over its front legs.

There are various styles of body harnesses is to choose from, but the majority of them have the basic metal D-ring which clips to the leash and is located on the strap that runs down the dog's back. They can be used instead of collars which provide a much safer environment when the puppy tries to pull away.

In this regard, the puppy receives the tension from the leash, instead of his or her neck, which could result in a spinal injury. Puppies are specially prone to running and darting every chance they get, even when on-leash. By removing the pressure from the dog's airway, body harnesses are a safe and effective alternative to standard neck collars.

Other Types Of Body Harnesses

There is also a wonderful body harness that is specifically designed to discourage your dog or puppy from pulling away. It is manufactured so that the cords of the harness go down and under the front legs, then routing backup to where the lead attaches. When the dog attempts to pull, the cords automatically press on his armpit region, thereby stopping the dog in his attempt to pull away.

Another type of body harness designed to deter your puppy from going in his own direction is known as a "no pull" harness. This type of setup as a rain located in the center of the chest strap with a leash is attached. It is a simple these on that allows the leash to turn the dog's body away from the direction he is trying to go into. If he tries to pull one way, the dog's body will inadvertently be shifted into the opposite direction.

Are Head Halters Considered A Safe Alternative?

Many dog owners prefer the use of head halters as an alternative to a body harness. There are several types of head halters available and all of them are designed to prevent your dog from pulling the leash.

Regardless of the specific type, all head halters have a strap that goes around your dog's muzzle and then another strap that is securely placed around the neck. If the dog pulls away, the halter will force his head towards the opposite direction in which he is trying to move into.

Head halters work just fine but there are some drawbacks. For one thing, and halters look very similar to muzzles, and when strangers see a dog with a muzzle, it is assumed to be unfriendly. Some people may get nervous or give harsh stares toward your dog, others may react in a rude manner.

Another drawback is that most dogs do not get used to a head halter quickly. It takes quite some time for them to adjust to the strange fitting. It may take up to two to three weeks in some cases. If your dog reacts extremely negative towards the head halter, he may start to associate walks on the leash with an unpleasant experience. And let's face it, walking outside with you should be your dog's favorite pastime, so take notice of your pet's reaction and try not to force a head halter on your dog if it does not appear to be working out.