Archive for September, 2009
Parties & Your Dog: How To Make Every Event Dog-Friendly
Posted by: | CommentsParties & Your Dog: How To Make Every Event Dog-Friendly (Part 2)
A great food addition to any party that kids and dogs can both devour together are those to trusty boneless chicken nuggets and the ever popular mac-and-cheese. You might also find takers for fresh, cubed fruit and veggies, especially if offered with a peanut butter and jelly dip.
Setting a festive table by substituting dog bowls - clean, brand-new ones, of course - for plates is another decorating option.
If your event venue is a backyard or garden, replace chemical lawn pesticides and fertilizers with safe botanical alternatives; Neem Oil for the Garden is effective yet harmless to pets (it's available online and at some health food stores).
Also, arm your dog against mosquitoes and other pests by washing him with an all-natural pet shampoo that contains Neem, which is absorbed by the skin. Neem makes the dog's blood taste absolutely horrible to those unruly pests that fly in for a bite.
For good measure, safeguard against pests by rubbing your dog's skin and coat with a product called Buck Mountain Herbal Gold Parasite Dust, made of Neem and diatom flour. You can also find this product online or at various health food stores. Be sure to replay the mixture if the dog gets wet. And when creating flower arrangements, remember that Lilies are extremely toxic so avoid them at all costs.
Resist the temptation to overdress your dog. At a wedding, say "no" to: four-footed tuxes, bridal gowns, top hats, tiaras, veils and yarmulkes. It's far more humane to replace your dog's ordinary collar with a special-occasion version made of grosgrain ribbon, color-coordinated with what the rest of the bridal party is wearing (inexpensive custom options, complete with useful monogramming is a great option and is serviced by online providers).
Here is a really good look for a large male dog (and especially sharp on a dark-coated mutt): A man's wing collar and silk bow tie from. If it's a kids' party, go head and put an Elmo party hat on the dog, but don't expect him to wear it a moment longer than it takes to snap a photo!
Speaking of photo moments, if you're entrusting archival duties to a photographer who's not conversant with contemporary canine culture, explain to him or her upfront that you'd like to see the dog in as many shots as possible After the last thank-you note is mailed, you'll be so glad to have proof that your party animal was the life of the party!
Dog Sports – Introducing Your Dog To Canine Sporting Events
Posted by: | CommentsDog Sports - Introducing Your Dog To Canine Sporting Events & Competitions
Are you the athletic type that has considered starting a sports activity program that you and your dog can both enjoy together? Would you like to see him jump high into the air and catch a high-speed disc or retrieve a ball thrown out of visibility into a trial-area? Or maybe go through a maze in an obstacle course and watch your buddy come through with tremendous accuracy?
If this interests you, then you'll be happy to know that there are several sports activities that you and your canine friend can both participate in. Dog sports such as agility, obedience trials, musical freestyle, canicross, disc dog, field trials, and many others are becoming more and more popular among dog enthusiasts, and for various reasons:
1. It is a great way to exercise your dog and keep him in great shape
2. It provides an excellent opportunity for you and your dog to connect on a different level.
3. It is a great way to meet like-minded dog lovers.
Warning: We strongly encourage that you take your dog to the vet for a complete physical check-up before starting any kind of sport. This is to ensure that he is in healthy shape and not suffering from any type of physical condition that can hinder his performance or cause harm to the animal.
Two Factors To Consider When Picking A Sport
What type of activity or sport does your dog like to do, one that he does really well with? If you already know the answer to this question, then the next step is to just get familiar with the types of dog sports that are out there and pick one that you think best matches your dog's favorite activity.
However, if your dog is not currently engaged in any kind of activity, consider the following factors:
1. His breed. Your dog's genetics play an important part of the type of activity that he may enjoy, as well as his ability to perform that specific activity. Understanding his history and heritage makes it easier for you to find a sport or activity that is most suited for his breed.
Learn more about your breed. Find out what type of job his ancestors did and what they were originally bred to do. For instance, most, if not all dog breeds from the spaniel or retriever family, will do great in water sports and retrieving, although it doesn't mean that water sports and retrieving are the only two things that you should consider.
2. His personality. In addition to his physical abilities, you also need to consider his personality. Some dogs love nothing more than to run a long distance course or catch a flying ball. These dogs will definitely do well in many types of dog sporting events. Other dogs are a little slow at first, but with right training and motivation, they too can have fun and benefit from participating in canine sports.
First Aid – How To Save A Choking Dog
Posted by: | CommentsDogs sometimes have a bad habit of putting anything they find inside their mouths. Actually, let me correct that statement, dogs always seem to find a way to put objects in their mouth that do not belong there! They tend to pick up all types of stuff, ranging from balls to rocks, small toys to articles of clothing, basically anything they deem fun to play with.
Unfortunately, there are many times when a dog accidentally swallows these objects and it becomes lodged in his throat. If this object is not removed immediately then there is the chance for the animal to stop breathing and become unconscious.
Since this occurrence is very common with all pets, it would behoove of you to learn the basic moves that it takes to help your dog from choking. This can invariably save the life of your pet.
Below are basic First Aid steps which can come in handy for a choking dog:
If Your Dog Is Choking, But Remains Conscious
1. With two hands, open your dog's mouth and look inside to see if you can see the object. If you can see it, try your best to remove it.
2. If you cannot see the object, place your dog on its side and elevate the hindquarters.
3. Now place your hand below the rib cage and another on the dog's back. Press in and then up, all in one fluid motion. Keep pressing until the object is coughed up.
4. If the object does not come up then your dog may become unconscious. If this happens, then follow the steps below.
If Your Dog Becomes Unconscious
1. As stated above, be sure that the dog is placed on his side with elevated hindquarters.
2. Open the airway and be sure the tongue is pulled out as far as possible and placed to the side.
3. Now perform several compressions in the same area that you had attempted to press in the rib cage. After two to three compressions, check the mouth for any foreign objects by using the sweep of your finger.
4. Now give the dog a few breaths.
5. Repeat this cycle of compressions, finger sweeps, and artificial respiration breaths until your dog starts breathing by himself and dislodges the object.
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Posted by: | CommentsEmergency First Aid For Dogs 4: When A Dog Is
Posted by: | CommentsEmergency First Aid For Dogs 4: When A Dog Is Bleeding
It happens every day - a dog is crossing a street or busy intersection and becomes the target of thousands of pounds of crushing steel - injuring the poor animal to the brink of death.
If you ever have the unfortunate experience of bearing witness to this trauma, it is important to have a basic understanding of shock and any type of bleeding the animal may be experiencing. In fact, any bleeding must of course be considered an emergency condition, because the canine doesn't really have any blood that it can safely spare.
There are three types of external bleeding that every dog owner should be aware of:
1) Arterial
2) Venous
g) Capillary
Arterial Bleeding
Arterial bleeding occurs when an artery has been severed. The blood from an arterial wound will be bright and red, and will flow in a pulsating manner in time with the dog's heartbeat. This is the most dangerous of the three types of bleeding, and the flow of blood from the severed artery must be shut off, or clamped. If it cannot be seen, pressure must be applied between the wound and the loss of blood until professional help can be obtained.
Venous Bleeding
If a vein has been cut, the blood will be darker red, and will flow evenly. A pressure bandage - or any pressure at all - applied directly below the wound, will help stop bleeding from a severed vein. The pressure should be released every five to eight minutes, and then reapplied.
Capillary Bleeding
Capillary bleeding can be recognized as an oozing from the small, surface blood vessels. This will probably be the most common wound you'll encounter. Direct pressure applied to the wound will stop the flow of blood. This can be accomplished by the use of gauze bandages - or whatever type of folded cloth may be available in an emergency.
Note: Cotton should never be applied directly to a wound as a pressure bandage.
Any internal bleeding must be regarded as extremely serious, and professional treatment is required for the necessary injections to help coagulate the blood. Internal bleeding can be caused by a ruptured organ inside the abdominal cavity (such as the liver or spleen).
Internal bleeding is usually indicated by grayish-white gums, which is also a visual symptom of shock. In any case, where internal bleeding is suspected, the dog should be treated for shock, since any extreme loss of blood will cause the dog's blood pressure to drop. The loss of blood pressure alone can cause the dog to go into shock.
Curing Those Backyard Blues: How To Get Your Dog To
Posted by: | CommentsCuring Those Backyard Blues: How To Get Your Dog To Respect The Yard (1)
Many people believe that you shouldn't even consider owning a dog unless you have a fenced-in yard. While this opinion may be extreme, it's no argument that a backyard makes dog ownership simpler: Housetraining can begin outdoors from the start and pace is readily accessible for exercise and exploration - even before leash manners are taught.
In fact, the backyard is so handy, some dog owners even use it in place of training (not a very wise move). Got company coming over? No problem - toss Sparky out into the yard to prevent exuberant greetings and bring him back when all the visitors have settled in - or wait until they've all gone home. Hey, how about installing a pet door so you don't even need to get up to let the dog in or out?
Convenient? Yes, Smart? Not At All
Unfortunately, this relinquishment of supervision and control can lead to backyard mayhem and the creation of an independent thinker - a dog that has little desire to please its human caretaker!
Dogs are social creations, and given their druthers, most would choose to keep company with their human family and canine friends. When shipped out to the backyard alone, they become bored and lonely. They entertain themselves by digging holes, tearing out plants and shrubbery, and escaping under or over the fence in search of companionship. Some bark their butts off in an attempt to call their clan together or exchange vocalizations with other yard-bound dogs.
Social isolation isn't the only reason dogs dig, bark and destroy the backyard, but it plays a major role. After all, if a supervised dog is about to do the wrong thing, its owner is on the spot to give it a warning and redirect its attention to someone preferable, such as fetching a toy or performing an obedience command.
When the dog does the right thing, its owner is able to immediately reward the good behavior with play, praise or a tasty treat; and as we know from psychologists, rewarded behavior increases in frequency.
Think of your backyard as the dog's home gym. It's a great place for exercise and stress reduction, but not meant to be the dog's exclusive home 24/7. A dog isolated in the backyard cannot learn house manners, protect the residents and contents of the home, or build respectful relationships with its people.
If your adolescent dog is too rambunctious to leave home all day then either hire a dog walker, drop it off at a doggie daycare, or install a dog door in the utility room so your dog has access to the yard and one or two well dog-proofed areas of the home. Do one or several of these things until it's well-behaved enough to earn full run of the house.
Common Puppy Behavior Problems: Nipping Till It Hurts
Posted by: | CommentsAll pups start out doing everything possible to seemingly want to annoy you, get in trouble, or worse - hurt themselves. But at the same time they are incredibly cute - they have to be so you'll still love them when they are being really bad, which happens often while they are learning how to behave in a human world.
If your puppy is misbehaving, don't fret. You can do plenty to help teach him the right way to act in just about any situation. Let's look at a very common puppy problem of nipping and how to solve the issue. If you follow this approach then you can rest assured that your pup will stop nipping in no time at all.
The Nipping Problem: An Easy Approach
It's natural for a puppy to nip while playing, and your puppy surely will do it to you, especially when he's excited. But no matter how cute he is and how harmless it seems, you must put a stop to nipping the moment it begins.
Puppies need to learn that their teeth should never touch human flesh, even in play. This will pay off when your dog grows up - he'll be less likely to bite anyone, especially if you have a big dog. And even the smaller breeds can give a good bite if the nipping behavior is not taken care of.
When you play with your pup, redirect his biting behavior to his toys, especially soft plush toys that have a satisfying "give" in his mouth and have rubber toys that you can stuff with treats to engage his interest - and his teeth.
Even if your puppy is as young as 8 weeks old, he can still learn that biting is not acceptable. If your puppy bites you during play, say "ouch" in a low voice, and remove your body part from his mouth.
If he continues to bite, walk away from him. If he follows you, step through a door and close him on the other side, but just briefly - don't leave him alone long enough for him to get in trouble!
You're teaching him that biting too hard makes the fun stop. He'll learn to control how hard he bites so you'll keep playing with him. As he starts to get the idea, you'll notice that he bites hard with less frequency. Then you raise the bar, and start applying your "ouch" to softer bites, until he learns to keep his mouth off of skin completely.
Identification: How To Ensure That Every Lost Dog Arrives Home
Posted by: | CommentsIdentification: How To Ensure That Every Lost Dog Arrives Home Safe & Sound
Identification for your dog could easily be compared to insurance - you are glad you have it but you hope you never have to use it!
However, if you do, you'll feel safe and secure knowing that it's there. When it comes to your dog, and especially small puppies, you never know when they might accidentally slip out the back door and having proper identification can mean the difference between getting your lovable pet back into your arms, or losing her forever!
What Is The Best Type Of Identification For My Dog?
There are several types of identification that can be used to help identify your dog if he or she was ever to become lost. To give you a clear idea of each type so that you can make an informed decision on how to secure your dog, here is the list:
1. Basic Tags and Collars: This type of identification is fairly inexpensive and can be taken care of quickly. You can order metal or plastic tags that have your address and phone number imprinted on them. The tag will then be attached to the dog's collar. This form of identification is also easy to spot and anybody who sees a dog running loose can simply look down and check to see what family he belongs to.
Unfortunately, these tags can also be easily removed or torn off. If your dog or puppy loses this identification then there is very little chance of getting him back. Their are also thieves out there who will be more than happy to see a puppy roaming around by himself and remove its collar in order to take it home.
2. Microchips: Microchips for dogs and other house pets have been around for quite some time. Originally, every microchip that was functioning in the United States were set on a frequency signal of 125kHz. Now microchips are functioning with a 134ǎkHz in order to conform to internationally used microchip systems.
Microchip identification is surgically implanted into your dog underneath the skin and generally in between the shoulder blades. The size is no bigger than a grain of rice and this small chip contains the owner's contact information that is uploaded to a national database. It takes a special scanner to read the number on each microchip. These scanners are usually available at many veterinarian facilities and animal shelters.
3. Tattoo Identification: Identification by tattoo is a third option that can be done quite easy and is typically inexpensive. Most of the time these tattoos will list your phone number and the puppy's name. The ears or stomach area is typically the location that a tattoo will be imprinted. The only cons are that tattoos can fade in time and even altered.
Common Puppy Behavior Problems: Jumping
Posted by: | CommentsNothing is more disconcerting than having a big dog jump up on you and practically knock you over. In fact, this habit is even more dangerous when children or elderly people are concerned. Far too many dog owners leave this bad habit alone and do not get concerned until it's too late, and the pooch is like a full grown bear trying to tumble over everyone he greets.
Teaching your puppy not to jump on people is important. Even though your pup is small now, he'll be bigger in no time. If he's a large breed, he'll be capable of knocking people over when he jumps up to greet them.
Small Dogs Are Not Off The Hook
Even small dogs can be a nuisance when jumping up so just because you own a toy breed do not think they should be off the hook. These small dogs can rip pantyhose, scratch legs and even knock over small children.
Instead of allowing your dog to jump on people, teach your dog to sit when he greets anyone including you and the other members of your family. First, teach him to sit. Once he knows this basic cue and performs it reliably, you can move on to training him not to jump up.
A Simple Anti-Jumping Training Routine
Start by setting up some training sessions. To train your puppy not to jump on company you'll need your guests to help you. Before you allow your company in the house, put a leash on your puppy and then bring your guests inside. Tell them that they cannot pet or pay attention to your puppy until he sits in front of them first.
Tell your puppy "sit" as the company enters. If he doesn't sit but instead tries to jump up on your visitors, hold him back with the leash and tell your guests to back away from him. They cannot pet him until he obediently sits and controls his impulse to jump up.
To teach your puppy not to jump on you, follow these steps: make sure your hands are free when you come in the house and your puppy tries to jump up on you, grasp him by the collar and tell him "Off." Then tell him to sit as you continue to grasp his collar. Hold him in this position and then praise him for sitting.
Encourage everyone in your family to enforce this rule constantly to your puppy gets the message. Consistency is key when teaching a puppy not to jump up. Within a week of solid training your pooch should show signs of control from jumping on people.
Common Puppy Behavior Problems: Barking & Digging
Posted by: | CommentsBarking is completely normal for any dog but it should be considered a problem if it becomes excessive. Most dogs will bark at strangers passing by, and this is to be expected. However, you need to teach your puppy that although some barking is OK, too much barking is not.
Allow your puppy to bark two or three times when someone rings the doorbell, approaches your house or walks past your yard. Don't let your puppy bark frantically until the person eventually leaves the area.
A Simple Anti-Barking Routine
To train your puppy not to bark excessively, be consistent and plan ahead. Ask a friend to come to your home and ring the doorbell. When the bell rings, your puppy probably will run toward the door and bark.
Take hold of your puppy's collar at that moment, and say his name and then the cue "be quiet." When he listens to you and ceases his barking, praise him heartily. After several practice sessions, your puppy should start to catch on.
Once your puppy has learned to respond reliably to the quiet cue while inside your house, you can begin the training session outdoors in your yard. Ask friends and neighbors to help you with the training by walking past your property or doing whatever else it is that sets your puppy off on a barking spree.
Remember, too, that bored dogs will bark more than those who are getting enough stimulation. If your puppy is barking like crazy at everyone who passes the house, he may need more exercise and stimulation. That way he won't feel compelled to come up with his own distractions.
Digging
The instinct to dig is strong in most dogs and often starts in puppyhood. If your puppy is starting to dig up the yard, you need to intervene before your garden begins to look like a mine field.
The best way to control your puppy's urge to dig is to give him a spot in the yard where he can dig to his heart's content. This might be a place where you've already seen him digging if you don't really mind that he digs there. Or, you may want to entice him to dig in an area that is out of the way and not visible from most parts of your yard.
If you catch him digging in a place that is not allowed, correct him by saying "NO DIG!" and take him to his allowed spot. If he digs in this designated digging area, praise him to let him know he's got the right idea.
Even though he has his own digging spot, you may find that your puppy still likes to dig in places he shouldn't. Protect these areas with temporary fencing (like chicken wire) until your puppy gets in the habit of digging only in his designated spot. Eventually, you should be able to take down the fencing and give him the run of the yard.

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