Archive for August, 2010
Dog Training: Correct Heel Methods (2)
Posted by: | CommentsAs you begin, position your dog at your left side while keeping the leash short. Leave a belly of reserved slack, with your right hand, look at your dog, say his name, then command "Heel"!
Begin walking, starting with your left foot. Walk briskly in a straight line, with confidence in your movement. Your dog will lose confidence in you if you wander aimlessly.
Remembering his experience on the long-line, your dog may walk alongside you fairly comfortably, but the odds are that since there are now only five to six feet connecting the two of you, he will react in one of the two following ways:
1. He will either rush forward past you in an attempt to keep a tight strain on that leash, or
2. He will hold back and be hesitant to walk with you at all. After all, this six-foot training leash is new to him.
If your dog is one that takes off like a marathon runner in a race, either surging ahead or out to the side in an attempt to keep the leash tight, simply open your right hand, release the slack you've been holding in reserve, and immediately do a right-about turn and walk in the opposite direction. When your dog is back in the proper heeling position, give him praise and a pat on the head with your free left hand. If you have a small dog, bend over to his level and give him his pat while continuing to walk.
Each time he surges ahead, release the slack as you do and definite right-about turn. Without slowing your pace, pick up some reserve slack and place it once again in your right hand in preparation for his next heedless charge. Your left hand is free to reach down and give him a pat on a head when, and only when, he is in the proper heeling position. That is, at your left side with his head and neck area about even with your left leg. Each time you place the reserve slack in your right hand, be sure to leave a belly of slack in the leash between you and your dog.
An Alternative Method For The Introvert
If your dog has an introvert personality, one that is reluctant to walk with you, you will need a slightly different method. The introvert dog just doesn't quite understand what's going on with this new piece of equipment and he's as reluctant to get involved as a person being taught how to play a new instrument. This type of dog needs a little encouragement and a show of enthusiasm on your part, and don't let anyone tell you any differently.
Use your free left hand to pat your leg as you give your dog a little talk of encouragement. Use short, forward snaps on the leash to help inspire your dog to walk with you. Watch closely as he begins to discard his reluctance, praise him enthusiastically and warmly. This shows him three things. First, that you are pleased. Second, that everything is alright. And third, that he has made the right decision.
Bideawee: Helping Dogs & Cats Find Loving Homes For Over
Posted by: | CommentsBideawee: Helping Dogs & Cats Find Loving Homes For Over 100 Years Ƒ)
For individuals looking for their first dog, and whose needs dictate an adult animal rather than a pup or kitten, the perfect answer is often to turn to an animal shelter. Not all animal shelters function as their name seems to imply though. That is, not all of them provide shelter, food, and care for a homeless animal until a new home becomes available.
One such organization whose standards far surpass the average home is the Bideawee organization, formerly known as the Bide-A-Wee Home Association. Entrusting a beloved pet to their care, the bereaved owner is assured that no animal is ever destroyed unless it is incurably ill.
Located in Manhattan and in both Wantagh and Westhampton, Long Island, the Bideawee Home has been finding loving new homes for unwanted animals for more than 100 years. Thousands upon thousands of dogs and cats are placed in loving new homes each year by the efforts of the Bideawee group.
Such a wide variety of animals passes through Bideawee each week that the prospective pet owner usually has no difficulty finding exactly what he's looking for. The variety of pups and dogs of mixed ancestry is unending and these combination often produce marvelously handsome, hardy animals.
While purebred pups and kittens rarely find their way to the Home, purebred adult animals frequently find themselves up for adoption - concrete evidence of too many pups and kittens of pure as well as mixed ancestry are glutting the animal market. Dogs and cats of almost every known breed from Afghan to Abyssinian have at one time or another been offered for adoption at Bideawee.
A Reasonable Organization
A small donation goes a long way at Bideawee. Only a small fee is charged for people to put the animals up for adoption, which includes inoculation. When available, purebred pets may cost slightly more but well within the means of most prospective pet owners.
All pets are sent out with a health guarantee and are treated free of charge should they exhibit symptoms of illness within the specified guarantee period. Every animal that is placed for adoption has received at least a temporary inoculation against distemper (and, in the case of cats and kittens, against pneumonitis too) and has been thoroughly examined by a Bideawee veterinarian.
Information solicited from the animal's original owner initiates the adoptive "parents" in what to expect from their new pet. Is he a good watchdog? Is he fond of children? Is he housetrained? Does he tend to be destructive? What does he like to eat?
The answers to these questions often make adopting a Bideawee dog even easier than buying a pup since the new owner is spared much mystery about how his pet will develop and, often, much of the disappointment of adopting a pet for, say, a watchdog in the neighborhood or, what is worse, selecting a pup as a child's companion only to have it become an overly aggressive, intractable dog.
Spaying The Older Female Dog Part 1
Posted by: | CommentsMost dog owners admit that there is a serious dog population explosion, but when it comes to spaying or neutering the family pet, that decision, as it's now personal, is much harder to make.
"Should I have my older female dog spayed since we don't want to have any more puppies?"
"My older female dog, Maggy, has been around for almost 10 years, has had 25 healthy puppies, and even earned her AKC niche. She has even made us enough income to have totally covered all of her dog food expenses and veterinarian care. Now that she's retired, wouldn't it be better to leave her baby-making-machine intact?"
"Wouldn't it be cruel to take away her femaleness? Could it make her mean, or let her get fat? I don't want her to suffer through an operation!"
Most of us have had thoughts like these when considering neutering of any of our pets. But the human psychological factors should not be the most important ones here. Think about it from the health standpoint of your dog.
Just what are the advantages of having an older dog spayed?
Many veterinarians and specialists in small animal care agree that there are dozens of reasons why you should have your non-producing female, five years or older, spayed. Here are a few great arguments for this decision:
Physical Harm Could Result From Accidental Breeding
Remember that female dogs never have a change of life or menopause as humans do. A very old female dog of 14 years could still bear puppies. Such unfortunate and accidental breeding could result in severe physical problems for the female.
By spaying an older female, especially one who has served her time as a producing unit in a kennel, the danger of indiscriminate breeding is eliminated as a physical reality, and as a worry for the owners.
Spaying Can Stop Health Defects
Spaying is an effective tool to stop congenital defects before they can be passed on through inheritance. Any severe physical problems such as hip dysplasia, undershot jaw, overshot jaw, deafness, blindness, hairlip, cleft palate, in a female, should be stopped in that generation.
If the female is not destroyed at birth, early spaying can stop the continuing procreation in that line. If your family pet has any of these characteristics or others which should not be reproduced, and the female is not spayed, such action should be considered at once.
Bouvier des Flandres (Herding Group)
Posted by: | CommentsThe Bouvier des Flandres is an adventurous and independent member of the Herding Group. With its fearless attitude and protective defenses, this dog makes an excellent watchdog. They were bred to perform a variety of functions and have both size and endurance to back it up. The Bouvier is of compact size, rugged in appearance, and enjoys the protection of a weatherproof coat.
The temperament of the Bouvier des Flandres can be summed up in two words - confident and bold. An all-natural guard dog, this breed has a dominant personality that can easily be trained by the right owner. They are protective of its family and will fight any battle against intruders. So long as the Bouvier gets daily exercise it stays calm and well-mannered inside the house. They are safe around children but reserved around other dogs and pets.
A Brief History Of The Bouvier des Flandres
Belgium is the original area from which this breed comes from, dating back to the 1600s. During this time period the Bouvier des Flandres was a big help in aiding cattle merchants and farmers with guarding and herding. Most of the work was done in the farmlands of the southwestern region of Flanders, as well as the French northern plains. In fact, the name bouvier is French, meaning "cowherd."
These dogs were also efficient in a variety of other tasks, making them well-known farm dogs and dependable cattle drovers. Like all breeds where a variety of jobs are done, these working dogs came in several colors, sizes, and types. Although the make-up of the breed is not documented, the involved types are estimated to be a variety of spaniel breeds, the mastiff, and the sheepdog.
In 1912, the first breed standard was drawn up for the Bouvier, due to a growing interest from dog fanciers. However, their numbers diminished during World War I. It was the bloodline from one superior surviving Bouvier, a dog named Ch. Nic de Scottegem, which can be found in almost every living pedigree of the Bouvier de Flandres today.
Upkeep Requirements For The Bouvier des Flandres
This is one dog breed that has extremely high exercise requirements and must have the freedom to roam and play during the day. Forget about keeping the Bouvier all couped up in the house until you are ready to play with him. This will cause frustration and destructive behavior. Daily interaction, mixed with vigorous outside games, and the chance to herd will keep this dog happy.
The Bouvier des Flandres has low tolerance to warm temperatures but can stand cool weather due to its heavy coat. They can live outdoors during the winter months, but as with any family companion, it is best to keep the Bouvier inside at night with the rest of the family. Grooming requirements call for at least two weekly brushings to keep its thick coat clean, plus a professional shaping or clipping every eight to ten weeks.
Health Concerns
The average lifespan of the Bouvier des Flandres is between ten and twelve years. Major health concerns that run common in the breed are SAS, glaucoma, elbow dysplasia, and CHD. Minor health issues include hypothyroidism. Veterinarians suggest that the Bouvier get specifically tested for hip problems.
Ear Cropping: What’s The Point? Part 1
Posted by: | CommentsEach year in the country thousands of young puppies are subjected to major surgery which is expensive, dangerous to some degree, uncomfortable, and often painful in its recuperative stages, not to mention totally unnecessary!
Ear cropping was humane in its origin. Centuries ago, when dogfighting sports such as bull baiting were popular, owners of fighting dogs decided that cropping the animals' ears was preferable to having them shredded in battle, which was even more painful.
Thank goodness this practical reason for the cropping of dogs' ears no longer exists! Why, then, do we persist in needless, expensive surgery?
We do it simply because our eyes are accustomed to the appearance of crop-eared Boxers, Schnauzers, Great Danes, and the others; because the standards of these breeds call for cropped ears and consequently breeders must go along with the practice.
Although the AKC says, "Ear cropping is optional for all of the breeds that are usually shown with cropped ears; there is no need for which it is compulsory," the fact is that a natural-eared dog in a show ring full of crop-eared animals would stand virtually no chance in the competition. Breeders wishing to sell pups with natural ears, therefore, would have an uphill battle in the face of public expectation.
The arguments against cropping are numerous and obvious. First, any unnecessary surgery, especially when it requires a general anesthetic, is abhorrent to most dog lovers. Ear cropping is simply not justifiable.
Second, the operation is performed usually at six to ten weeks of age, a time when permanent damage to the puppy's temperament can be sustained as a result of the trauma of the operation, and the discomfort and annoyance of post-operative bandaging, racking, and taping.
Third, it is a bloody operation over a large area of very sensitive skin. Besides the loss of blood, there is always some element of risk involved when a general anesthetic is used, especially with a very young pup. The physical effect on the puppy cannot be anything but detrimental.
Also, the ear-cropping age just about coincides with the selling age of the puppy. If the operation is performed by a veterinarian (and in some states this is the only way it can be done legally), the cost of the operation and aftercare add greatly to the expense of raising a litter of pups to selling age. The breeder must either take a sizable cut from his or her profit, or add the cropping costs to the selling price of the puppy. Furthermore, a puppy with a bandaged head does not make the best impression on prospective buyers.
Skin Conditions: Flea Allergy Dermatitis, Hot Spots, & Ringworm
Posted by: | CommentsThe most common allergic skin disease in the dog develops when certain dogs become hypersensitive to flea bites. The allergic agent is contained in the saliva or mouth parts of the flea and is injected into the dog when the flea feeds. The disease usually occurs during the warm months and is commonly called "summer eczema."
The disease begins near the tail-head of the rump of the dog. The animal will scratch or rub this area intensely, causing the hair to fall out and often ulcerating the skin. In severe cases the hair loss can become more generalized and involve large areas of the body.
Although the disease occurs more commonly in the summer months, many dogs will show signs constantly throughout the year. The flea can complete its life cycle in the home environment and thus can cause constant irritation to hypersensitive dogs.
Therapy is aimed at flea control on the dog, on other pets, and in the dog's environment. In addition, specific therapy can be instituted to control the signs and affected dogs. Cortisone-type drugs will relieve the symptoms of the allergic reaction. Injections of flea allergy extracts have also been useful in helping certain dogs with their flea allergy.
Hot Spots
Hot spots, known medically as "Acute Moist Dermatitis", is a troublesome skin condition in certain longhair breeds of dogs including Saint Bernards, Newfoundlands, Malamutes, Collies, and German Shepherds. Many types of skin irritation can cause the dog to inflict self trauma to the skin. A cycle of itch/scratch, itch/scratch, itch/scratch develops.
Round, moist ulcerated areas are created in the skin by the dog's licking, chewing, or scratching. Flea bites, flea allergy, and burs in the coat are common causes of hot spots. In certain cases, the underlying cause can never be found.
Therapy is directed at removing the underlying cause, breaking the itch/scratch, itch/scratch cycle, and effectively drying up the ulcerated area. Small hot spots may be treated at home with preparations that are drying and soothing to the skin. Products which contain camphor or menthol have these effects. Vinegar is a mild astringent which also will dry the affected areas. Large areas, however, are best to be treated by your veterinarian.
Ringworm
Ringworm, medically referred to as "Dermatomycosis", is a fungus infection of the skin, most commonly found in young animals. Circular or irregular areas of hair loss occur on the face, body, and legs. The skin in affected areas is usually dry and scaly. This disease can be transmitted from animal to animal, from soil to animal, and from animal to man.
Definitive diagnosis is best achieved through culture and identification of the fungal agent. Many chronic diseases that do not readily respond to treatment are mistakenly diagnosed as fungal infections. These mistakes can be avoided by the use of fungal cultures. Therapy is specific and will result in complete remission of the disease. Topical and systemic drugs are used.
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How You Can Housebreak Your Pomerarian
Posted by: | CommentsPomeranians are energetic and sharp dogs that are taught with no trouble, but like many small dogs housebreaking a Pomeranian can be a bit of a test. The solution to effectively potty training your Pomeranian is to begin early on and keep up a planned and prepared training timetable.
One fact you have in your support is this - Pomeranians are very hygienic by character. They dislike dirtying the place where they sleep and eat. What's more, dogs automatically build up behavior about where they do their job. A few dogs like to go on grass, while other dogs on gravel. Determining out what your dogs likes better and using that to your benefit can assist in your house training duty.
The foremost rule while house training the Pomeranian is to fix the training spot. Given that dogs do not like to dirty their bed, you want a small spot such as a small room or a crate. When you use a crate, make certain that the dog has an adequate amount of room to move about - you cannot be expecting your Pomeranian to be pleased in an undersized constricted crate for the time of the house breaking period.
You have to use as much time in the training spot with your Pomeranian as feasible. Have fun with the dog in there and give food to the dog there as well. Make certain that your dog has a good bed and can feel all snug and cozy in the spot. Do not get disheartened if your dog does in fact eliminate in this spot in the beginning - once he makes out that this is his own area he will definitely be unwilling to do so. You can let the dog out in other places when you are able to look at him, but when you are not home, keep your dog limited to "his area."
Next you have to put up the toilet spot. This has to be an area where your dog can get to each time he has to eliminate. You have to look at the dog and go together with him to the toilet area every time he looks like he is going to eliminate. Of course, commend him when he does so he gets the thought that going there is a good thing.
If you put your dog on a fixed feeding timetable it will become simple to guess when your dog has to eliminate. Once the dog is using the toilet spot over and over again and is not going in his training spot, you can spread out out to the other parts of the home. Make wider his training spot a bit at a time at all times keeping an eye out to make certain that he just eliminates in the toilet spot.
When you spread out into a new spot, be with your dog as much as feasible. It might be essential to put the dog back in the training spot when you are not at home until he makes out that the new spot is also his "space" and does not try to eliminate there.
What are some good 3-legged dog exercises?
Posted by: | CommentsMy little girl Chloe, a lab mix, is a recent amputee (front left) and she is already getting around pretty well, but her other front leg is not really strong enough to support all of her front weight for more than a few minutes, so I was wondering if any vet techs out there knew some good exercises to help her without hurting her?
Off-Leash Training (1)
Posted by: | CommentsFor those of you with dogs that are trained to heel accordingly, you are ready to make the transition into off-leash training.
What You Will Need
You will need two pieces of rope, five feet in length each. One of the pieces of rope should be strong and preferably made of nylon. The nylon line should be about the same thickness as a regular kite string. The second piece of rope should actually be a five-foot length of ten-pound test salt water fishing line.
The length of nylon line will be referred to as the "B" line, while the fishing line will be called the "A" line. You will begin by using the "B" line, so you may put away the "A" line for later use.
Tie one end of the "B" line to the ring of the snap on the leash. It must be tied through the ring - rather than the snap - to prevent the line from coming loose. Make sure the line is tied securely. Next, tie the other end of the "B" line on the dog's training collar, making sure that you tie it onto the same ring that the leash snaps onto. Then, snap the leash onto the collar in the normal manner.
You will notice that you are dragging a loop of line on the ground and either you or your dog will be getting your feet all tangle up, so pick up the "B" line slack and - using a clothespin - attach the "B" line excess right to the leash. This will keep it up and out of the way until you are ready to use it.
The first five minutes of your training period should be just as normal as always. Review all obedience commands so that your dog will be in the proper frame of mind for the upcoming lesson. The second five minutes of the training period should consist of nothing but heeling exercises. Do not go more than five feet in any single direction without either stopping, making a right turn, left turn, or about turn.
Do it fast and smartly so that your pet is performing like a real professional. Then stop and give him praise and a pat on the head. While he is preoccupied with the praise, unsnap the leash, in a nonchalant way, wrapping it into your right hand. One end of the "B" line is still attached to the ring of the leash and the other end to the ring of the training collar.
Put away the clothespin and prepare for a few more quick start-stop heeling exercises. Keep slack in the "B" line and do not allow the line to tighten. If your dog suddenly senses this new feeling of freedom and decides to goof off, he will be in for quite a surprise. Nylon does not break easily and a properly timed correction will produce a sudden revelation to your dog. He will discover that just because the leash is absent, the requirement for obedience is still there, and so is the correction for disobedience as well as the praise for a job well done.
Heel your dog back and forth, making right turns, left turns, about turns, and sudden stops while only the "B" line connects you to your dog. Just before your fifteen-minute training period is up, give your dog praise and snap the leash back on. Finish off the session with a bit more on-leash heel work.
For the next two weeks, you should alternate between working your dog on-leash and using the "B" line. Alternate back and forth, so that your dog won't be aware of which of the two he is attached to, and doesn't care either. Working with the "B" line can be a bit awkward and you'll find that it gets in the way once in a while, especially on the recall exercise. But this transition is important so be patient.
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