Equally enjoyed by families all over the country, the Wirehaired Pointing Griffon makes a loving house pet and gets along moderately with strangers and other animals. They are a devoted breed, always willing to please, and even displays a somewhat comical personality when having fun in the house or romping around the yard with the family.

A Brief History Of The Wirehaired Pointing Griffon

France is the area of origin for the Wirehaired Pointing Griffon. And unlike most breeds that came to development over time, the creation of the Griffon was carefully deliberate. Every step along the way is well documented.

The breed started during the middle of the 1800s when the Cherville Griffon was created and later crossed with the pointer and the setter. Further development and refining of the breed is credited to a man named Edward Korthals, from Holland. In fact, the dog is still called by the name "Korthals Griffon" in many parts of the world.

Mr. Korthals began his work of refining the breed in 1874. It is said the he crossed twenty other dogs from the following breeds: spaniels, setters, water spaniels, griffons, French pointers and German pointers. As he traveled throughout France Edward helped build up the breed's popularity all over the country.

By the year 1887 the first breed standard was published for the Wirehaired Pointing Griffon. In 1888, England offered the first show classes for the breed (although at that time the dog was referred to as a Russian Setter).

The popularity of the Wirehaired Pointing Griffon continued to skyrocket until World War II. After the war it's reputation for being an excellent hunting companion brought the breed back to new life, but the numbers never quite reached the same peak as before the war.

Upkeep Requirements For The Wirehaired Pointing Griffon

Owning a Wirehaired Pointing Griffon means having plenty of open space outside and an active lifestyle. Like all members of the sporting group, this breed needs daily stimulation from a romp in the open wilderness, jogging, or fun games with the family. They especially like swimming.

Wirehaired Pointing Griffon dogs are able to live outdoors so long as the temperature does not reach overly hot or excessively cold levels. It's best to allow the dog to remain outside in an open yard during the daytime hours, but to sleep indoors with the family at night. Due to its harsh coat, grooming requirements for the Wirehaired Pointing Griffon calls for heavy brushing twice per week.

Health Concerns

Wirehaired Pointing Griffon dogs can have a long life span of up to fourteen years, with twelve to thirteen being the average. A healthy breed, these dogs have no major health concerns to worry about. Minor health issues include otitis externa, CHD, ectropion, and entropion. Veterinarians suggest that Wirehaired Pointing Griffon dogs get tested for potential hip and eye problems.

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With its direct roots from the Greyhound dog, which are genetically designed to race as fast as possible, Whippet dogs entertained people in contests called "snap dog" games. People would place bets on the Whippet of their choice who would snap up as many rabbits as they possible could before escaping from the game circle.

It is also theorized that these dogs were probably crossed with ratting terriers in order to increase speed and quickness. When the Industrial Revolution started, this was the time that the true Whippet breed started to emerge. Huge numbers of rural workers had moved their entire livelihoods to industrialized areas. Along with them came their Whippet pet dogs that was a good source of entertainment.

Even when there were no rabbits around for the people to watch their Whippets play snap dog competitions, they found out that these dogs were just as excited to race towards other objects, particularly a waving flag. This was the dawn of flag racing, which became very popular amongst coal workers. Referred to as the "poor man's race horse", Whippets grew in large numbers.

Whippets were not only used for entertainment, but also to help the poor earn extra income and helped procure food for the family. These dogs were loved, valued, and shared everything with its human companions.

Whippet racing is still somewhat popular at current times, but it never took off quite as commercially as Greyhound racing did. As a result, it remains an amateur sport. The AKC officially recognized the breed in 1888 and through further mixing with the Italian Greyhound, many beautiful and aesthetically appealing Whippets have been born and raised in many family households.

Personality

Of all of the sighthound dogs, the Whippet is claimed by dog enthusiasts to be the most obedient and demonstrated. If you are looking for a quiet house dog that is a totally devoted and loyal companion, this dog will make the perfect pet. Whippets are extraordinarily gentle with kids and is on the overly-sensitive side, both mentally and physically. They do not fare well when treated harshly or yelled at.

Taking Care Of Your Whippet

Whippet dogs love to run but can also do very well in a small-sized apartment, so long as daily walks are given. While many dogs can sleep and live in standard conditions, Whippets need a very warm and soft bed to be comfortable in. It absolutely hates cold weather and is not meant to live outdoors. Grooming does not take much work, if any at all. The hair on their coat is extremely short and it rarely gets that musty "doggy smell" most dogs get.

Health Information

Whippet dogs have a lifespan of up to 16 years, with the average being 13 toಎ years. They are very healthy with only one major health concern to watch out for, and that is potential eye problems. There are absolutely no minor issues to worry about and veterinarians suggest that you have your Whippet tested for eye problems throughout its life.

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Most of the time people purchase new puppies and bring them home around the age of six to eight weeks. This is the perfect time period in which they are best to be weaned from their mother and conditioned to live with you and the rest of the family. It makes bonding much easier because you have immediately replaced the puppy's mother with yourself.

On the other hand, there are many times when older puppies become available for sale. These dogs may be older than 10 weeks, 12 weeks, or even up to six months and still considered to be puppies. Like making any decision out of the norm, there are pros and cons to bringing home and older puppy.

What considerations should you keep in mind when deciding on an older puppy?

One of the biggest benefits of getting an older puppy right off the bat is that their behavior is a lot more calm than a younger pup and the dog has usually been socialized to a small degree when it comes to the day-to-day chaos of living in a house with other people. Their first home has already conditioned them for you.

Watch out for older puppies that may have been neglected. It is important not to be too naive when you are discussing the option of buying an older puppy from someone. Not everybody sells their dogs for positive reasons. Some owners are trying to get rid of them simply because they couldn't take care of the puppy's needs and due to this reason they probably neglected the dog for a long period of time.

The results of this unfortunate living situation could have produced anxiety and stress related disorders to the dog. Because you cannot get all of this information with your first meeting of your potential new puppy, it is important to bring all the members of your family with you to look at the dog. Make sure they all get a chance meet the dog. Look closely at how he interacts with the other members of your family. Does he seem nervous? Do you sense any aggression? Is his approach with confidence or shyness? These are possible signs that the animal has developed some sort of mental condition as a result of the lack of human contact.

And of course, you'll want to ask the owner a few basic questions before making a buying decision. Ask if the dog has had any type of training. Find out firsthand if the puppy displays any behavioral bad habits such as aggression, chewing, or excessive barking. Also, make sure that this is the first and only home the dog has been in. If he has lived elsewhere before the current owner then find out why he was sold. These are just a few of the basic questions you should know to ask. Add more questions to your list for better due diligence.

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First, it's embarrassing, especially if your puppy does it to company. Second, it can be a demonstration of dominance on the part of your dog. The notion that your dog is dominant over you or anyone else who comes to visit is something you want to nip in the bud.

If your male puppy is 5 months or older and seems to be suddenly mounting a lot, it's time for him to be neutered. This may stop the problem completely.

If your puppy is younger than this or is a female and is mounting another dog that he or she is playing with, just ignore the behavior. This is between the dogs and is harmless. If the other dog doesn't like it, he will let your puppy know.

If humans are the subject of your puppy's mounting behavior, you need to step in and spend more time obedience training your dog. By mounting, your dog is sending a message that he thinks he is the dominant one in the household. Regular obedience training should remedy this.

Once your puppy understands that humans are above him in the pecking order he will stop challenging you by mounting. If your puppy bites or growls if you try to stop him from mounting you or another person, see a professional dog trainer for help.

Chasing

Puppies love to chase things: toys, balls, other puppies... They also like to chase things they shouldn't, like small children, cats, bicycles, cars, etc.

The time to teach your dog not to chase inappropriate things is when he's young. It's much more difficult to teach this to an adult, so take advantage of your puppy's youth and do it right away.

When a puppy chases something or someone, he is looking to play. You must teach your puppy what is OK to chase and what is not. Balls, toys and other dogs who want to play are fine. Kids, cats, and bikes are not.

The best way to teach your puppy not to chase things he shouldn't is to teach him the "leave it" cue. "Leave it" is used to stop your dog from doing something he shouldn't. This is useful in many different situations, including when your puppy is starting to chase the neighbor's cat or is running after a small child.

To teach "leave it," put the leash and collar on your puppy and have him sit. Hold on to the leash and drop a treat in front of your puppy while saying "leave it." when the puppy starts to move toward the treat, repeat the "leave it" cue.

When your puppy just sits and looks at the treat but doesn't move toward it, turn him around to face you and praise him. Do this one more time. Then give your puppy the treat by handing it to him.

Once your puppy is reliably leaving the treat when you tell him to, increase his temptation by using something even yummier, like a piece of chicken or one of his favorite toys. Keep working at this until your puppy will "leave it" every time you ask, even off leash.

When your puppy learns the "leave it" cue, you can use it to stop him from chasing cats or cars or anything else. Once he hears "leave it," he will know that whatever he's pursuing is off limits.

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Teaching your dog or puppy to "wait" is an invaluable training command that will not only improve his behavior, but can also save his life.

One of the most common problems that many dog owners have is preventing their pets from darting through the door at any given chance they get. As you can probably guess, this behavior can cause your dog to run from the house and face injury or even death from oncoming traffic.

The "Wait At The Door" Training Procedure

Step 1: Have your dog sit by your side as you face the door (inside of the house). Be sure that the door opens away from you. The idea is to show your dog that an open door does not mean it is okay for him to leave.

Step 2: Now give him the "wait" command as you reach for the door. If your dog does not move, say "Good Boy" and give him a treat. However, if he starts to move towards the door, give a cheerful "No No", and get him to sit down again. Do not scold him, keep it positive. It's supposed to be fun and productive.

Step 3: Repeat the process, but the next time do not reach very far for the door, a few inches with your arm will do. If your dog remains sitting then continue with the procedure while each time adding more length as you reach for the door. Your dog should be sitting until you actually touch the handle and jiggle it. Again, reward him with a treat for sitting still.

Step 4: Next, reach for the door and slowly opened it just an inch or two. Reward your dog if he sits still. And again, if he starts to move towards the door then say "No No" and sit him back down again. Repeat the process while you continue to open the door more and more each time.

Step 5: Your dog should be doing quite well by now. When you are able to open the door all the way while your dog remains sitting, the next step is to walk through it, turn around and face him. Wait about 15 seconds and then walk back to the dog and give him a treat. Every now and again you should walk through the door and call your dog to come to you as you stand on the outside porch. Give him the "sit" command along with a treat.

The End Result

Eventually, with enough practice and repetition of the above five steps, your dog will automatically sit every time the door opens up. Because of the training procedure he learned, his instincts will tell him to sit patiently and await for permission to walk through.

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Bringing a new baby into the household that already has a puppy living in it can prove to be a little difficult at times. You need to understand that a puppy who has been in the house for a while views the home as his territory and when you bring home a small child then this toy-like new person can feel like a threat. There is no best way to prepare for this scenario, however we do have a few suggestions to help your puppy adjust to the new arrival of your baby:

1. Once your new baby comes home, the puppy is going to experience times when he will be ignored. It is just unstoppable and he must get used to it. Your baby will need your full and undivided attention and sometimes your dog may not be able to participate.

In order to start helping your puppy adjust to these times, start by ignoring him at least one full hour every day. This exercise should be practiced a few weeks before the due date of your baby. Be sure that you are in the house doing something simple such as watching TV or folding your clothes, etc.

2. Keep in mind that you're going to have a lot of baby items laying around the house, especially toys. While you can do your best to keep your home clear of these toys, there are times when your dog may make an attempt to grab them. Therefore, you must try to discourage your puppy from eating the toys.

You can do this by having a few baby toys laying on the floor next to his play items. When he goes and reaches for the baby toys, give him the "no" command and then shift his attention to one of his own toys. One way to make your dog remember the difference in the toys is to mark all the baby's toys with mouthwash. Soon he will associate the "no" command with the smell and taste of mouthwash and ignore the toys altogether. Needless to say, dogs hate the smell and taste of mouthwash products.

3. You are going to have to allow your puppy to sniff and get used to the baby. However, keep in mind that babies love to tug and pull at everything they see. This may startle your puppy when the baby goes to tug at him. So in order to get your puppy used to this behavior, start by tugging and pulling at your puppy whenever you praise him. For example, give his ears a quick tug when you pet him. Grab at his coat when you go to praise him. And for extra training, perhaps make some baby sounds as you go along. Remember, your goal is to have your puppy desensitized to the new sounds and actions that your baby will display when he or she arrives at the home.

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The fun-loving temperament of the Westie carries over to strange dogs and people, as they are always looking to make new friends. Somewhat reserved around other pets in the house, these dogs quickly bond, making them amiable with every member of the family. At night they make excellent watchdogs, and will bark at any approaching person, animal, or sound.

A Brief History Of The West Highland White Terrier

The roots of the West Highland White Terrier goes back to Scotland, during the 1800s. The breed actually shares its bloodline with various other terriers during that time, each with outstanding hunting abilities. Small animals such as badger, fox, and vermin were hunted by these efficient terriers.

At one point, various breeds were all considered to be one. The list included the Skye Terrier, the Westie, the Scottish Terrier, and the Cairn Terrier. Distinctive strains were produced through selective breeding, based on qualities such as color and coat type, which were easily maintained throughout Scotland and several islands to the west of the country.

The West Highland White Terrier first gained popularity in 1907. At the time it was named the "Poltalloch Terrier." Over the years the breed went through several more name changes, including: Little Skye, Roseneath, Cairn, and the White Scottish. In fact, the breed was registered with the AKC in 1908 as the Roseneath Terrier, but soon changed in 1909 to the West Highland White Terrier.

Upkeep Requirements For The West Highland White Terrier

The West Highland White Terrier is not the kind of dog that should live outside. Although they do have tolerance to moderately hot or cool temperatures, they should be spend most of their time indoors. However, having access to a fenced-in yard during the day is ideal, with sleeping arrangements inside at night with the rest of the family.

Westies need daily exercise to take care of their high energy levels, but due to the small size of the breed, these requirements can be met with a few walks on the leash and some playtime in the yard or living room. Grooming requirements call for a thorough brushing of the dog's wiry coat, two to three times weekly. A professional clipping is also recommended every few months to keep the coat neat.

Health Concerns

The average lifespan of the West Highland White Terrier is between twelve and fourteen years. Major health concerns that run common in the breed include CMO, Legg-Perthes, skin disease, and globoid cell leukodystrophy. Minor health issues reported are KCS, copper toxicosis, patellar luxation, and cataracts.

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Some dogs just absolutely refuse to become house trained. No matter how long and hard you have tried to implement techniques to get your dog to use the bathroom in the proper areas, he still chooses to be "vengeful" towards you by not following your instructions, right?

Wrong! The common misconception that your dog is trying to be vindictive and countermine your housetraining efforts by refusing to follow the rules is a complete myth.

Dogs only have the capacity for simple, direct emotions, such as being happy, sad, or scared. Their minds are not capable of plotting ways to seek revenge for that swat on his rear, or how you scolded him an hour ago.

Dogs do, however, remember and draw upon past experiences that they associate with current situations. But it is important to understand that these associations only create an emotion in which they will feel when going through a similar experience.

In other words, lets say that you punish your dog for urinating on the front porch. If you continue to scold him for this behavior then eventually your dog will become fearful of using the bathroom outside. All he knows is that he is "outside", not on the front porch. Your efforts will countermine your housetraining goals.

For this reason alone, it is important never to punish or yell at your dog when he uses the bathroom inside the house. Most housetraining problems actually stem from owners who completely instill fear in their pets when they go potty on the floor. This creates enough trauma to completely halt all of your housetraining efforts.

The key is trying not to react. Instead, remove your dog from the room and take him outside in a very calm and relaxed manner. Be sure that he does not see you cleaning up his mess. Quietly clean the area and be sure to use an enzyme-containing house cleaner. Vinegar or liquid soap will do just fine as well. By completely removing all of the older, this helps reduce your dog's need to urinate and mark the same spot over and over.

Tip: Avoid using ammonia because the smell is very similar to that of a dog's urine and can stimulate him to pee in the same area.

When all else fails, schedule a visit with your veterinarian so that the doctor can do a complete health checkup of your dog to make sure that there is not a health-related reason for his inability to become house trained.

Some dogs can be harboring illnesses that may prove to be the cause of not having the ability to control their bowel movements. Such illnesses could be caused by ticks, such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, or the most common reason: a urinary tract infection.

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The West Highland White Terrier and the Cairn Terrier are really brothers under the skin. Cairn Terrier breeders considered the "whites" as skeletons in the closet and pretended that they didn't exist. Whenever a white pup showed up in a litter, it caused the breeder embarrassment; professional breeders therefore tried to obliterate all traces of the scrappy little terrier with the white coat.

Once in a while, though, a white puppy from a litter of Cairns managed to survive man's injustice and breeder fad, and together with a white puppy from another source, the strain of whites was preserved. In fairness, it should be pointed out that those who did save the whites from being destroyed were equally guilty of destroying any puppy born with a coat other than white.

Advocates of whites and advocates of colored continued their practice of breeding for distinct color, and in time, each side had developed a distinct variety of terrier. Though they did not originate the breed, one family in Poltalloch, Scotland, is credited with keeping the white breed pure for many generations. They were the Malcolm family.

To the Malcolm family - and those who lived nearby - the white terriers became known as the Poltalloch Terrior. While Cairn Terrier breeders were busy eliminating the occasional white puppy from their litters, the Malcolm family was busy deliberately working the other way; that is, eliminating all other colors - except for white.

By the turn of the century, the West Highland White Terrier had lived with the name Poltalloch Terrior, Roseneath Terrer, White Scottish Terrier, White Cairn Terrier, and finally, the West Highland White Terrier.

The West Highland White Terrier became more popular with the general public than did the Cairn, and therefore was introduced into England before his colored brother. By the time Cairn Terriers gained the necessary popularity to be introduced to English dog shows, they found their white upstart little brothers already firmly established on the show circuit.

The "Westie" gained official recognition from the Kennel Club of England in 1907 followed shortly thereafter by the Cairn. The breed held its own in popularity for 10 years before the Cairn finally gained ground and became more popular with dog fanciers.

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