To completely understand the true nature of the Labrador Retriever, dog owners must have a firm grasp on theŃ most important aspects that make up this animal's temperament and personality.

1. Labs Are Natural Born Hunters: Unlike most other hunting dog breeds, Labs do not just wait for its human hunting companion to command them to retrieve fallen birds. These dogs have to be so attentive that they can mark the fallen foul themselves.

It is believed that Labrador Retrievers are more aware of their surroundings than other hunting dogs because of their heritage. When hunting, Labs await for the right signal from their hunter in order to seek out and find the prey. Similarly, at home, they constantly wait by their owner's side for the next task or command, regardless of what it is. It could be to walk, eat, anything really. This is what makes Labrador Retriever dogs a bit too needy for some dog owners.

2. Labs Must Have Proper Training: As hunters, Labs must be able to follow specific directions in order to find birds. And even if they do not have a direction to move in, they will keep hunting without giving up. In other words, a good Lab literally takes matters into its own hands to get the job done.

These characteristics are great for people to enjoy having a service dog that can take on its own in certain situations. On the other hand, it's bad for dog owners who are incapable of providing absolutely no direction whatsoever. This is where most problems lie with new Labrador owners.

Many people see perfectly trained Labs at the park or walking with their owners and think to themselves "I want one of those dogs. They are so well trained!" Little do they realize that these animals are never born trained. It takes continuous progressive dedication to specific training protocols, all based on a Labrador's genetic make up. This can prove too much work for some people to handle and end up with nothing but problems and frustration with their dog.

3. Labs Are Like A Box Of Chocolates: The last and most important thing to understand with Labrador Retrievers is that they are individualistic and not every Lab is the same. As Forest Gump says, Labrador dogs are like a box of chocolates, they come in all varieties and you never know just what you will get as they grow up.

Most Labs demonstrate the same interests, hunting, running, retrieving, and swimming, but oftentimes you may get a Labrador puppy that may absolutely hate water. And if you are fortunate enough, your Lab may not have an oral fixation, which causes many of these dogs to eat anything they can get a hold of.

The one thing you can definitely count on is that every Labrador Retriever is special and through proper training, attention, and love, you will have a wonderful dog that will display the utmost in loyalty and affection until its last day on earth with you.

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What You Will Need

You will need two pieces of rope, five feet in length each. One of the pieces of rope should be strong and preferably made of nylon. The nylon line should be about the same thickness as a regular kite string. The second piece of rope should actually be a five-foot length of ten-pound test salt water fishing line.

The length of nylon line will be referred to as the "B" line, while the fishing line will be called the "A" line. You will begin by using the "B" line, so you may put away the "A" line for later use.

Tie one end of the "B" line to the ring of the snap on the leash. It must be tied through the ring - rather than the snap - to prevent the line from coming loose. Make sure the line is tied securely. Next, tie the other end of the "B" line on the dog's training collar, making sure that you tie it onto the same ring that the leash snaps onto. Then, snap the leash onto the collar in the normal manner.

You will notice that you are dragging a loop of line on the ground and either you or your dog will be getting your feet all tangle up, so pick up the "B" line slack and - using a clothespin - attach the "B" line excess right to the leash. This will keep it up and out of the way until you are ready to use it.

The first five minutes of your training period should be just as normal as always. Review all obedience commands so that your dog will be in the proper frame of mind for the upcoming lesson. The second five minutes of the training period should consist of nothing but heeling exercises. Do not go more than five feet in any single direction without either stopping, making a right turn, left turn, or about turn.

Do it fast and smartly so that your pet is performing like a real professional. Then stop and give him praise and a pat on the head. While he is preoccupied with the praise, unsnap the leash, in a nonchalant way, wrapping it into your right hand. One end of the "B" line is still attached to the ring of the leash and the other end to the ring of the training collar.

Put away the clothespin and prepare for a few more quick start-stop heeling exercises. Keep slack in the "B" line and do not allow the line to tighten. If your dog suddenly senses this new feeling of freedom and decides to goof off, he will be in for quite a surprise. Nylon does not break easily and a properly timed correction will produce a sudden revelation to your dog. He will discover that just because the leash is absent, the requirement for obedience is still there, and so is the correction for disobedience as well as the praise for a job well done.

Heel your dog back and forth, making right turns, left turns, about turns, and sudden stops while only the "B" line connects you to your dog. Just before your fifteen-minute training period is up, give your dog praise and snap the leash back on. Finish off the session with a bit more on-leash heel work.

For the next two weeks, you should alternate between working your dog on-leash and using the "B" line. Alternate back and forth, so that your dog won't be aware of which of the two he is attached to, and doesn't care either. Working with the "B" line can be a bit awkward and you'll find that it gets in the way once in a while, especially on the recall exercise. But this transition is important so be patient.

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A crate is not a prison or a cage. Rather, it is a comfy den, and no dog wants to poop in his comfy den. That's what makes the crate such a good investment: You are using the dog's own natural instincts to help him understand where you want him to do his important business.

Crates work well because a dog or puppy does not want to soil his bed or immediate area, so providing that you don't leave your dog crated for unreasonable periods, you can use a crate to educate your puppy to wait until you take him outside.

To be effective, the bottom of the crate should be covered in bedding, otherwise the puppy will assume that anywhere other than the bed is OK to use as a potty, and that habit can be a hard one to break.

The size of the crate is critical to its effectiveness. You'd think that your pup would want a nice, big crate, but in actuality, the den should be small and cozy.

In the beginning stages of housetraining, the crate needs to be only large enough for your dog to lie down and turn around comfortably. Too large, and your pup may use a corner to relieve himself. Plastic-style crates are usually a better choice because they have more of a den-like feel for your dog.

The best option that as worked for my personal use with my puppies are of two varieties: the metal folding crate and the plastic airline type that bolts together in two halves with a metal door.

Some dogs don't like the close-in plastic type because they can be dark and not as inviting as the more open, wire type. The advantages of the folding crates are that they work well for transporting your dog in a vehicle or for taking your dog on vacation, plus they fold flat for storage.

When Choosing The Right Crate:

1) Choose one just large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around.

2) If you have a large-breed pup, buy a crate with a divider to make the crate bigger as he grows, otherwise you'll have to buy several crates as time goes on.

3) If your dcor is a concern, there are many attractive crates available, including rattan, wooden and doghouse-style crates.

4) Soft-sided crates aren't ideal for housetraining because they are more difficult to clean and the smells of potty accidents can linger, causing your pup to want to eliminate there again.

5) Some folding crates come with handles or nylon bags, making travel a breeze.

6) If you're going to move the crate around a lot, get one with wheels. Wheeled crates are also great for travel.

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Thanks to the experts there is an easy way to weed out the puppies from a litter that do not match the behavior, personality, and characteristics you are looking for in a new dog. The test only takes several minutes for each pup, and that's not much time considering that the right dog will be living with you for many years.

The test should be run before the litter is seven weeks of age and the test alone should be taken with each individual pup, one at an isolated area that is new to the pup and free from any distractions.

During the testing (including carrying the pup from one litter to the area) there should be no spoken words, no urging or praise. All the pups should be handled very gently so they will not be upset.

Social Attraction

Carry the pup to the center of the test area and place him down. Step several yards away from him in the direction opposite the door or gate by which you entered the area. Kneel down and gently clap your hands to attract the dog.

You are to observe how readily he comes to you. Note (because you will be comparing all the pups) whether his tail is up or down. Is he lively or hesitant, or does he not come at all? This reveals the pup's degree of social attraction, confidence, or social independence.

Following

Starting from a position next to the pup, walk away from it in a normal manner. Watch him closely as you walk. How readily did the pup follow you? Was his tail up, and was he underfoot? Did he bite your ankles and challenge your progress? Did he not follow, or was it hesitantly, with tail down?

Restraint

Crouch down and gently roll the pup onto its back, holding him with one hand on his chest for thirty seconds. Does he fiercely flail, bite or growl? Does he just fiercely flail? Does he struggle then settle down? Does he make no struggle and even lick your hand?

How fiercely the pup objects to this position, or how readily he accepts it, indicates his degree of dominant or submissive tendency in response to both a human and physical-domination situation.

Social Dominance

Crouch and gently stroke the puppy from the top of his head down along his neck and back. Do this for at least thirty seconds. Does he jump, paw, growl, or bite? Does he squirm and lick your hand or roll over? Does he walk away and stay away?

This test indicates whether or not the puppy accepts your social dominance. Highly dominant pups will try to dominate the tester by jumping on him or even biting and growling at him. The independent pup may just stalk away. In all cases, continue to stroke the pup until a recognizable behavior pattern has been established.

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When you decide to take him traveling for the first time, you should always give him food in small amounts throughout the day, while he adjusts to traveling. If you feed him a lot of food before you head out, he may get sick in the car and have an accident. By reducing the amount of food that he consumes, he'll be much more in control of his bladder and himself.

When you are traveling, always plan to make frequent rest stops and allow your Golden Retriever time to relieve himself. You should also take some time to exercise as well, stopping every few hours for bathroom breaks and exercise. Golden Retrievers will hold themselves if they need to, although it isn't good for them. No matter how far you travel, you should always be kind to your dog and stop every so often to let him have some time.

A common mistake that many have made, and one you should avoid at all costs, is letting your Golden ride in a moving vehicle with his head out the window. Although you may think this is a good idea, your Golden can easily get an eye, ear, or nose injury. Cars and trucks move at very fast speeds, and something can pop up when you least expect it and do serious damage to your dog.

When you stop for a break or to fill up your car, you should never allow your Golden Retriever to be alone in the car with the windows up. Even though you may crack the windows for him, the heat of summer can result in a heat stroke if you aren't careful. If your dog does get a heatstroke from being locked up in a hot car, he can easily die before you are able to return to the car. If you simply must leave your dog in the car, make sure that you park in the shade and give him plenty of air.

As long as you do your part and take care of your Golden Retriever when you travel, he will love to travel with you. Traveling is something that your Golden needs to get used to, although most adapt to it fairly quick. Once you have taken your dog traveling with you, he will know when it's time to travel and eventually learn to tell you when you need to stop so he can use the bathroom.

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Regardless of where your dog's personality lies on that scale, once you have given the command to heel you must start walking and continue walking. Encourage your dog to accompany you if necessary. Correct his heedless rush with absolute right-about turns if necessary. But, you should never, ever give in if your dog decides to not follow your command and just "sit this one out."

Dogs learn by associating their actions with a pleasing or displeasing result. Therefore, the dog who tries to take advantage of the new shortened leash by surging and keeping a strain on it comes to a sudden discovery that you still have the situation very much under control. As soon as he can cause the leash to tighten, he will take his eyes off you, only to feel the sudden jolt of your right-about turn.

By using the reserve slack in your hand properly, your dog will realize that the leash is no different than the long line, except that he must pay even closer attention since the six-foot leash gives him less time to react than the fifteen-foot long-line. He'll realize how much more pleasing it is to walk at your side so that he can see which way and when you're going to change direction. Your left hand giving him a pat on the head when he's in the correct heel position is also more pleasing than the sudden jolt that he gets when not in the proper position.

On the other hand, your introvert dog, one that stands as if he had feet glued to the cement, suddenly feels the slightly displeasing effect of the short, sharp jerks of the leash. Hearing your enthusiastic tone of voice and seeing your left hand pat your leg invitingly will do wonders to make your pet choose the more promising alternative. The moment he does, he will discover the warm, affectionate praise and pat on the head to be far more enjoyable than the series of sharp jolts he experienced as a result of his initial reluctance to walk with you.

You may have to spend each of your fifteen-minute training sessions for the next four days in this simple leash introduction so the introvert-type will walk without any reluctance or fear and to stop the extrovert's heedless rushes by your unannounced change of direction.

Don't Be Afraid To Use Too Much Pull

Let me describe a scene of what an extrovert dog may do when prompted with a distraction. Picture a dog tied to a tree on a twenty-five foot rope lying in loose coils on the ground. He is sleeping comfortably under the tree when a cat walks by past the dog at a distance of about twenty-seven feet.

The dog wakes up, spots the cat and rushes recklessly to pounce on the poor cat. The dog will be stopped two foot short and very abruptly too. After regaining his composure, he will still strain and tug to try and get the cat. But, unless he's a total fool, he will not make that reckless rush a second time - not while still tied to a tree. But does he blame the tree? Of course not.

You are not as firm as a tree, so don't be worried about hurting your pet. Your objective should be clear. Your dog should walk at your left side, neither lagging behind nor surging ahead.

Always remember that the leash should be slack. Eventually, you'll be heeling your dog without the leash and you will realize the importance of that slack. If your dog is used to feeling a tight leash restraining him in the heeling position, he'll be long gone when you walk him without the leash later on.

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The exact origin of the Lowchen is still unknown, even though several countries have all claimed to have started the breed (France, Russia, and Germany). We do know that dogs which resembled the Lowchen, with its noticeable lion trim, were found in German artwork from the 16th century.

Traditionally, the lion trim look came with the coat clipped short from the dog's last rib all the way down to the hock joint, including the hindquarters. The front legs are shaved from the elbow to slightly above the dog's pastern. The feet are also clipped and approximately one half of the tail is shaved. Whatever long hair is left over is left 'as is'.

The Lowchen dog breed almost vanished during the 1960s when its numbers had slipped down to practically nothing. Fortunately, through the help of two dog enthusiasts, the Lowchen was revived when this group of breeders imported a handful of related dogs from Germany and moved them to Britain. The animals were in such small numbers that they had to be interbred extensively which helped form the base for today's Lowchen breed in both Britain and in the United States.

The survival of the Lowchen dogs proved to be successful and the breed was entered into the AKC's miscellaneous class in the year of 1996. Then in 1999 the Lowchen was an official member of the non-sporting group.

Personality

The Lowchen is the perfect dog for a quiet family that enjoys having a lovable and high-spirited small dog around the house. With their high energy levels and friendly attitude towards people and other animals, this dog is a ball of fun to have around, always willing to please, and is easily trainable. In addition, the Lowchen makes an excellent watchdog, similar to most small dog breeds.

Taking Care Of Your Lowchen

Because of its small size, the Lowchen can have its exercise requirements taken care of by a short walk or brief play sessions on a daily basis. These dogs also enjoy mental stimulation and fun games. Lowchens are not meant to live outside but it does appreciate having the freedom to roam in an enclosed yard if possible. Grooming does require a little work, with a thorough brushing every other day. To keep its traditional lion trim, Lowchen dogs will need clipping every couple of months.

Health Information

Of the hundreds of dog breeds known around the world, only a very small percentage do not have health concerns to worry about. The Lowchen is one of them. With no major health issues and the only minor problem which is common with all small dogs (patellar luxation), the Lowchen typically lives a long and healthy life of up to 16 years.

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Despite its angry looking face, these dogs are extremely amiable and mellow. The Bulldog is well behaved around children and tends to thrive on pleasing its owners. Although he can be protective of its owner and a little aggressive towards strange dogs, this breed makes a great family companion and will get along just fine with other pets in the home.

Upkeep And Maintenance

When it comes to upkeep and maintenance of the Bulldog, moderate exercise should be given on a daily basis, such as a brisk walk through the park at least once or twice daily. This is definitely not the type of dog that is made for running. The Bulldog is quite docile and tends to prefer a slower pace.

Although the Bulldog can live both indoors and outdoors, it is recommended that he remain inside with the family as much as possible. These dogs cannot stand hot weather and are not good with water. In fact, Bulldogs do not know how to swim.

Grooming the Bulldog takes a little extra care, but only around the face wrinkles and other folds located around the tail. These areas should be cleaned moderately on a daily basis. Other than that, a light brushing over the rest of the coat, once or twice weekly, is all that is needed.

Health Information

There are some major health concerns that you need to be aware of when owning a Bulldog. They include stenotic nares, shoulder luxation, ventricular septal defects, CHD, internalized tail, and elongated soft palate. Occasionally you might come across urethral prolapse and vaginal hyperplasia.

The lifespan of the Bulldog can reach up to 12 years, sometimes longer. Specific health tests that are recommended by veterinarians include testing for elbow problems, hip dysplasia, need dysplasia, and potential eye problems. Also, wheezing, snoring, and lots of drool is typical with every Bulldog.

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Originally, Great Britain and later, America were obsessed with bloody fights between bulls and dogs. The main function of the canine is to hang on to the bull's neck and worry the poor animal until it dies. Obviously, these dogs had developed great strength in their jaws.

Among the popular choices of dogs for this sport were the pit bulls. Back then, the selection of pit bulls was so varied that many showed a variety of characteristics that made the sport highly interesting. Later in the life of the sport though, the center of attraction switched towards the fight between pit bulls and not against the bulls themselves.

From these canines rooted most of the bull dog terriers that we know of today.

One of the significant bull dog terriers we have is the American Staffordshire Terrier who is of great interest since it possesses intriguing seemingly opposing characters.

They project strength and physically power but they are not vicious. In fact, this dog is very much associated with its relationship to its family, especially among children. The physical features it has are now only due to their basic nature and orientation during their bloody fights as fighting machines. But this does not negate the fact that they can sometimes show aggressiveness which may somehow work against them. Nevertheless, this can be set off with their loving nature and devotion to human family. Thus, it has a stable temperament which make them good pets and excellent watchdogs.

AmStaff terrier, as it is called by its shorter name suffers in reputation though since it is commonly associated with pit bulls. These dogs are known for their love for challnge and are therefore employed in illegal dog fighting.

Most of the problems root from irresponsible training. Sadly, there are too few AmStaff that are properly trained. And what's even depressing is that there are innumerable pit bulls that are continually ill-treated by sadistic owners.

We are often confused of what true pit bulls are. In fact, many contend that these dogs must not be called by that name since it elicits unwanted images of gory dog fights. While this breed is not yet officially recognized by the American Dog Breeders Association or the United Kennel Club, the legitimate name remains to be American Pit Bull Terrier.

While it is true that American Pit Bull Terrier is violent in nature, this doesn't imply that they are made purely for brutal stuffs. As we have earlier said, these dogs are only products of maltreatment and exploitive training (and inhumane) for self serving purposes. Otherwise, American Pit Bull Terriers can be very people loving.

These are also known for their being hardworking on which they excel from. They are also fond of excessive physical activities that would exhaust their power reserves. Thus, this breed is great for those who need company during athletic training. If you are the couch potato personality, please find another breed of dog that would suit your lifestyle.

To clear things off, American Pit Bull Terrier are not officially recognized not because of its ill reputation but mainly due to beliefs that it is not a purebred. One major standard for a dog to be distinguished as member of Kennel Clubs is that it should be purebred. Until more comprehensive findings on its origin are found, this dog will remain unfortunately tagged as "nasty."

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One side states that treating for canine shock includes the administration of intravenous fluids, oxygen, and possibly blood transfusions; procedures which are not possible for the layman to undertake.

Of course this is agreeable, however, on the opposite side of the controversy there are also veterinarians who feel that if the dog owner will implement a few emergency procedures, the onset of shock can be prevented - and in cases where shock is already present, the effects can be minimized.

Basic Procedures You Can Do

So, while the full procedures for treating for shock include some things not within the scope of the layman, we will still us the term "treat for shock" in describing those procedures which can and should be implemented by anyone on the street.

The first step in the emergency first aid procedures for treatment (or prevention) of shock is to keep the dog calm and warm. Anything available to accomplish this should be used: blankets, hot water bottles, your own coat anything to keep the dog warm and keep its temperature from falling.

The second step depends upon whether the dog is conscious or unconscious. If the dog is conscious, you should administer stimulants such as warm coffee, bourbon, or brandy.

Note: It is also interesting to note that the type of stimulant used is also a big controversy among veterinarians, as will be discussed later.

If warm coffee is used, mix in some sugar and cream (or honey) so that the dog will not find the stimulant bitter and end up trying to fight its administration. Some veterinarians find brandy or whiskey, mixed with equal parts of honey or syrup, to be more effective.

Never Force A Stimulant

Stimulants such as these, spilled into the corner of your dog's mouth, can help to keep it alive until you reach your veterinarian. However, if your dog fights the administration of the stimulant, stop! Step one is to keep the dog calm and warm; if it fights the stimulant, the excitement and distress which result are far worse for the dog's condition than the value it would receive from the stimulant.

If the dog is unconscious - or semi-conscious - do not administer any liquid supplement at all! To do so would probably cause strangulation. The liquids could also go into the lungs causing inhalation pneumonia. When you have done all that you can in the treatment for shock, the dog must be taken to a veterinarian as quickly as possible for supportive treatment and the administration of the necessary intravenous fluids.

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