Stroke - Your Dog's Chances Of Recovering From A Stroke

If your dog has had a stroke and you have sought out the proper medical attention, the good news at this point is knowing that your dog will recover from his stroke much faster than a person would. In fact, all dogs seem to progress to better health after having a stroke than humans who suffer the same experience.

Most dogs who are suffering from vestibular disease and responds to treatment within a few days has an excellent chance of recovering. However, he may be left with a slight physical dysfunction such as a tilted head or dizziness. Some dogs are unfortunately left with seizure episodes for the rest of their lives. And if the animal has cancer which was the cause of the stroke to begin with, his seizures will increase in quantity as time goes on.

Two thirds of all dogs who suffer from strokes (not strokes related to vestibular disease) are found to recover well. Only about one third of these dogs will experience further medical complications in the future. As with all deep rooted diseases, the number one influence on a dog's recovery is the treatment of the underlying cause itself and if left untreated, there is a higher chance of more strokes to come.

Preventing Strokes

Prevention is one of those ideas that most people think of after it's too late. But if you are reading this article and are still lucky enough to have a healthy dog at home who has not suffered from a stroke then it is your duty to do what you can keep them healthy.

This is especially true if your dog has already suffered a stroke in the past. He will need extra preventive measures taken from you so that he does not suffer more stroke-related complications. In addition to regular checkups and specific blood tests which can detect diseases contributing to strokes, your veterinarian can also recommend other products which may be helpful.

Two such prevention items are antioxidants and aspirin. Antioxidants are considered a nutraceutical that can be given to older dogs. And aspirin is good for decreasing clot formation. However, aspirin should never be given to a dog whose previous stroke involved bleeding. Contact your veterinarian for further details and never give your dog anything unless approved by the doctor.

Welcome back! If you've commented, I hope you enjoy the eBook. I hope to add more treats in the future, so stay tuned!

Luxated Patella: Is Your Dog Suffering From This Debilitating Condition?

If you think that your dog is suffering from a luxated patella or a slipped kneecap, the best thing to do is take him to the vet as soon as you can. Although a slipped kneecap may not seem like a serious condition to your young dog, it is a progressive disorder and can be debilitating if left untreated.

5 Common Symptoms Of A Slipped Kneecap

Symptoms usually start to appear when the dog is young, between the ages of 6 months to 1 year. But in some dogs, symptoms show up as early as around 8 weeks of age, but remains undetected until the dog reaches maturity. Signs include:

1. Difficulty climbing stairs.
2. Occasional skipping or limping, especially during a run.
3. Lameness on the leg, especially on the rear, that occurs frequently and ends suddenly.
4. Difficulty squatting.
5. Suddenly yapping in pain while walking or running, usually lasting for 2 to 4 strides.

In severe cases, the kneecap dislocates more often and lasts longer. Your dog will show discomfort and pain, seems bowlegged, and exhibits a crouching way of walking.

Luxated patella is categorized in four grades, depending on the severity of the condition:

Grade I: This is when the kneecap manually dislocates but goes back into place once the pressure is released. Considered as a mild case with treatment not necessary. However, you need to keep a close eye on your dog in case the condition gets worse.

Grade II: The kneecap dislocates more often, either manually or automatically, when the joint is being flexed and continues to be dislocated until the joint is extended and the leg is turned into the opposite direction of the dislocation. Considered as middle ground between mild and severe, dogs with grades I and II should be closely monitored in case the condition gets worse.

Grade III: The kneecap dislocates on a regular basis, whenever the joint is flexed and extended. Dislocation is manually decreased when the joint is extended. This is considered to be severe enough to warrant surgery.

Grade IV: The kneecap is permanently dislocated and cannot manually be put back into place. This is because the groove is too shallow or, in some cases, completely missing. Surgery is needed to fix this problem.

Emergency First Aid For Dogs 3: The Shock or Stimulant Controversy

When a dog goes into shock, what stimulants are safe to give the animal? What exactly should you do in this situation? Life or death is waiting on your decision...

Before going into the differences of professional opinion on these very important questions, note the following basic guidelines:

A) If the dog is conscious then administer sweetened, warm coffee or whiskey.

B) If the dog is unconscious then do not give it anything at all. Instead, rush the animal immediately to the closest veterinarian's office.

The Shock or Stimulant Controversy

It is interesting to note that many of the popular canine medical books on the market today are in complete opposition regarding a large number of the procedures for emergency first aid. Although these publications are written by knowledgeable, practicing veterinarians, their different views cause more questions than answers.

One major point of controversy is whether emergency first aid procedures should be instituted at all. One faction claims that time wasted looking for blankets or other material to keep an injured dog warm could spell the difference between life or death.

The other faction claims that failure to keep the dog warm could also spell the difference between life or death. The biggest controversy, however, seems to concern the type of stimulant to be used in an emergency situation: coffee, tea, or liquor.

The anti-liquor advocates state that liquor is a depressant, not a stimulant. The pro-liquor advocates counter by saying that liquor is a depressant only when consumed in large quantities, and that in an emergency situation, a shot of booze serves as an effective stimulant.

How can practicing veterinarians, men and women who are highly trained and closely skilled as one another in the same medical field, have such opposing views on something as simple as emergency first aid procedures? Hasn't veterinary medicine progressed to the point of being an exact science? The answer is an unqualified no!

Make A Choice, Any Choice

It will be most interesting to know your personal opinions on the matter. This issue should warrant debate so that you can choose how to be prepared to help your dog (or any dog) that may be in an emergency situation and has fallen into a state of shock. Any help is better than just leaving the dog to die or mistakenly rushing it to the hospital without shock treatment.

In summary, then, remember the initial steps in the treatment for shock: Keep the dog calm and warm; administer a stimulant if (and only if) the dog is conscious; and rush the injured animal to the nearest veterinarian for the necessary supportive treatment.

Puppy Bone Health: 2 Major Hip Problems Every Puppy Owner Should Look For

Hip dysplasia is typically the first concern of bone problems in growing puppies but there are two other bone issues that your pup may have to deal with. They are called Osteochondritis (OCD) and Patellar Luxation.

Osteochondritis (OCD)

This is a common joint problem in growing puppies of larger breeds. It typically affects the same breeds that are prone to hip dysplasia. OCD is primarily a disease of growing cartilage. It develops due to reduced blood supply to a localized area of cartilage. The cartilage fails to mineralize (become bone) and the piece of cartilage that separates from the surrounding bone, causing pain and lameness.

While any joint can be affected with OCD, those most commonly involved include the shoulder, elbow, knee, and ankle. Joint supplements, herbs and homeopathics can help control pain and nourish the normal cartilage and joint structures, but ultimately surgery is needed to remove the malformed and detached piece of cartilage from the affected joints.

Patellar Luxation

So far we've talked about bone and joint problems in puppies of larger breeds, but one particular problem that most commonly affects smaller breeds is congenital (present at birth) patellar luxation. Breeds that typically suffer from this malady include poodles, Pomeranians, Maltese, Yorkshire terriers, and chihuahuas.

The patella is the technical term for the kneecap. In patellar luxation, the patella dislocates (luxates) when the knee joint is flexed and extended. As the joint moves, the patella usually pops right back into place, never bothering the dog or causing lameness.

The good news about patellar luxation is that it rarely ever causes the dog a problem, so treatment isn't usually needed. Often, people with these dogs don't even know there's a problem. A good veterinarian should diagnose patella luxation during annual physical examinations and point it out to the client (who is probably unaware of the issue to begin with).

In some cases treatment will be required. The current recommendation is to surgically stabilize the patella via one of several surgical techniques. Surgery is only necessary for those dogs in which the patella does not slide back into place and causes persistent lameness.
Following surgery, a good joint supplement containing glucosamine, chondroitin, hyaluronic acid, or perna mussels is important to minimize the chance of the dog developing arthritis in the future.

Just like children, puppies can experience growing pains as they get bigger. In young dogs, however, the problem can sometimes be more serious than a few aches and pains. Being aware of potential bone and joint issues, having your puppy screened for these conditions, and taking steps to help minimize them is your best defense.

One of the most difficult tasks facing a veterinarian is how to manage hip dysplasia. There are several modes of therapy available, but only the most commonly accepted techniques will be discussed.

1. Maintenance: This is non-surgical management and consists of rest and restricted exercise, pain relievers, and anti-inflammatory drugs. Its best use is in mild cases or in dogs who are poor surgical risks.

2. Hip Join Reconstruction: This is extensive bone surgery with the ultimate goal of returning the hip joint to a normal anatomical relation. It is quite difficult to perform and often must be referred to an orthopedic surgeon. Surgery to correct hip dysplasia works best in young dogs before arthritis of the joint has become a problem. The techniques include pelvic osteotomy, acetabuloplasty, and varus osteotomy.

3. Joint Replacement: Older animals may benefit from surgery in this classification. The "ball" part of the joint is either replaced with a synthetic ball or removed entirely. Synthetic replacement has not been very successful to date. Removal of the femoral head eliminates its bone contact with the pelvis and, eliminates the pain.

Prevention

Any disease with a hereditary component can be at least partially controlled by selective breeding and studies thus far have been very rewarding. A nonprofit organization, the Orthopedic Foundation For Animals (O.F.A.), has been engaged in the study of orthopedic diseases since 1966.

Their program for the control of dysplasia is centered on x-ray evaluation of the hips. Three independent veterinary radiologists interpret every film sent to the foundation. If the joints appear normal, an O.F.A. Certification number is given. If any degree of dysplasia is found, the owner and his veterinarian are notified. Dogs showing any degree of dysplasia should not be used for breeding.

Large-breed owners should insist on a radiographic evaluation of the hip joints of any dogs to be used for breeding, whether male or female. Anyone who has suffered with a growing pup afflicted with this crippling disease can appreciate the importance of this type of control program. It should be noted that the O.F.A. certified parents may produce dysplastic offspring, but the incidence is greatly reduced.

Since the treatment of hip dysplasia is far from satisfactory in many cases, restrictive breeding remains as our best weapon for exterminating this disease.

Heartworms, which are considered to be internal parasites, can be more disastrous to your dog's health than outside parasites, such as ticks and fleas. This is especially true for young puppies who are more susceptible to negative health conditions. A puppy's physical developing process can be interrupted from heartworms. And important nutrients from the food a puppy eats can be absorbed by heartworms, instead of being utilized by the dog's system for growth and good health.

Another important concern to worry about when it comes to these types of worms is if you have children. You should take the extra precaution necessary because certain types of parasites that are found inside puppies and dogs can be transmitted to your kids. As a good rule of thumb, always walk your dog or puppy through clean areas outside and do not let him sniff at any dog poop that is laying around as this can cause transmission of parasites.

Preventing heartworms

Heartworms are nasty little creatures and are transmitted by insects such as mosquitoes. This means that there is more of a danger of heartworms during hotter climates with high levels of humidity. Heartworms make their home within the confines of the heart and lungs of an animal. If this parasitic condition goes unnoticed by a dog owner, the little puppy or adult dog can die.

As you can clearly understand by now, it is better to take preventative measures against heartworms rather than discover them after they have already infested your dog. Fortunately, preventative action against heartworms is a very simple procedure. Below are two options that you can choose from:

1. You can supply your dog with a daily pill that will prevent heartworms. Your veterinarian can prescribe your dog with a daily heartworm-fighting pill that comes in the form of hard tablets or chewable tablets which are made for easier ingestion. The only downside of this preventative tablet form is that you must feed it to your dog every day without fail. And the medication is not as strong as the once per month tablet, which is described next.

2. Your second option, which is a bit more expensive than the daily tablet, is to give your dog a heartworm pill only once per month. Your veterinarian can offer you this monthly heartworm tablet to feed your dog which is a lot easier to maintain than trying to keep up with medication everyday. The vet will prescribe the spill based on how much your dog weighs.

A puppy's approach to the world, outside the box he was born in, is quite simply, to eat it! This includes shoes, toys, sofa cushions, and just about anything else he can put into his mouth. If the object is too big to fit, the puppy will whittle it down to size with his pin-like baby teeth and make it fit.

While this imp-like behavior is destructive, it can also prove fatal for the puppy. For example, one good-sized bite out of a bar of soap containing harsh chemicals and the odds against making it to the vet in time before the puppy convulses and dies are ten to one.

The fat-soaked trussing cord from the turkey has been known to become entangled in the intestines of a puppy. In most cases, the owner is not aware that the puppy has gotten to the turkey or leftover bones until it is too late. An unsupervised puppy is like an unsupervised infant crawling around on the floor.

Puppies are also very attracted to decorations and ornaments, which includes magnets, pins, and needles. Splinters of wood, glass, and plastic are equally dangerous - for all are dagger-like and can puncture your puppy's throat or become lodged in the intestines.

Some of the old-fashioned Christmas tree ornaments were manufactured using radium to make them glow in the dark. In a puppy's stomach, this is a lethal poison.

Soft rubber of the type found in bath toys is also extremely dangerous for puppies. Veterinarians report that rubber is one of the most common causes of surgery in puppies and young dogs. The soft rubber tears easily and can stick to the puppy's insides causing total blockage of the intestinal track.

And right after Christmas time, just about the time you feel you have everything picked up and out of harm's way, your puppy could be gnawing on a string of tree lights. A 110-volt jolt to the mouth can be lethal.

The secret of surviving the holidays (or any other time of celebration with decorations around the house) and all your decorations for that matter, without harm coming to your puppy is supervision. Keep in mind that it only takes a second for a puppy to choke on a gift wrap ribbon, or be strangled by a small ball lodged in his throat.

In one town, what started out as a happy time during one lovely Christmas turned into a tragedy when the rubber band on a paddle-ball toy broke. The puppy reached the loose rubber ball before the child, and within a few seconds, the ball was firmly lodged in the puppy's throat.

There's no use in saying "No" to a puppy in a roomful of Christmas decorations. No amount of scolding will make the puppy less curious. It may temper him for a moment, but the temptations to a young pup will overcome all of your "No-nos", no matter how emphatic. A puppy's stomach is a strong organ and can digest a lot of strange things, but aluminum icicles and rubber bands are not included.

Since the 2005 Hurricane Katrina disaster, several new laws have been passed to ensure the safety and protection of our four-legged canine friends. The animal welfare organization has come up with a better emergency plan of action and more shelters have been established to keep the pets with their owners in case such an event happen again.

President Bush signed a new federal law in October of 2006 called the Pets Evacuation and Transportation Standards (PETS) Act. This act states that FEMA is required to include the needs of individuals with companion pets and service animals. It also states that evacuation rescues for emergency or major disaster is included in the funding of state as well as local disaster plans. The act also allows FEMA to help rescue pets and other service animals before, during, and after a disaster occurs.

In addition to the federal PETS Act, many states are also joining in on the effort to ensure animal safety during a disaster. These states have either passed their own pet evacuation bill or revised an existing bill that includes the protection of companion pets and service animals.

The state of Louisiana, for example, passed a bill on June of 2006 that enables the state to aid in the evacuation as well as give shelter and other assistance to pets when disaster strikes. These pets and service animals will be given a bar code tag and the owners will get a copy to help them locate their pets after the emergency.

Other states such as Louisiana, California, Florida, Hawaii, Maine, New Mexico, New Hampshire, Vermont, New Jersey, Illinois, and New York have also established a better disaster action plan to make sure that no pets are going to be abandoned and left behind.

The American Red Cross has also modified its policy on pets. The organization is now joining forces with local animal welfare agencies all over the country to establish shelters that can accommodate pets in separate rooms or in a facility in the same location.

Animal control departments and local human societies are also using the World Wide Web to post pictures and descriptions of pets to help reunite them with their owners. For more information, call your local animal agency.

It is quite easy to check your dog for any flea infestation. Do so whenever you are brushing or even petting your dog. Always take note of the animal's skin condition, checking his fur as well.

When you do this, a few things to keep an open eye for are:

1) Is the skin clean?
2) Is the fur clean?
3) Does the dog have an odor, even within 24 hours of a fresh bath?
4) Where is the odor coming from?

The Most Common Culprit Is The Flea

95% of the time any issues you find will be the result of fleas feeding off your pet. The flea causes much irritation on your dog due to sucking the canine's blood. Flea saliva can cause your pet to become allergic to the bite. This will cause far worse scratching than a dog that does not have this sensitivity.

What is even more terrible about fleas is they spread tapeworms inside your pet. If the dog ingests the flea then it tapeworms start to grow. All it takes is a small group of these vampires to cause problems.

Where Do They Come From?

The tiny flea that jumps around is visible on the pet's skin. Every time you take your dog for a stroll or a romp in the yard he is a potential victim to these parasites. The flea might not be there when you go out the door, but after that bush that you strolled by, the flea has just hitched a ride after a 2 foot jump!

The flea only bites to suck blood that will nourish it's eggs. Then it will hop off most likely in your home - especially the carpet. Then come the eggs that hatch into a mob.

If you start to see your dog scratching more than usual after an outing then check for fleas. Fleas can sometimes look like little moving black dots. If your dog has fleas bad enough you might see what is called "flea dirt." This is a waste product from the flea like dried blood and even at times eggs.

So brush your dog often and move that fur around to check for parasites. Check his back, the ears, along his neck and torso. Also check the belly and around the tail. If you find fleas then bathe your dog and get flea repellent for the inside of the house. And do not panic when the flea comes for a visit - every dog owner will encounter this problem at one point or another. It's just part of having a family pet.

Emergency First Aid For Dogs 5: Approaching An Injured Dog

The most common of all accidents involving dogs is the one in which the dog is struck by a car. To help you prepare as best possible should, you run into this type of scenario with a hurt canine, please read along and take notes of the following steps. And please, take these steps to heart as it can save your dog someday, or someone else's family pet.

Approaching A Hurt Dog

When approaching a dog that has been struck by a car, care must be taken that you aren't bitten by the dog you're trying to help. An injured dog knows only that it hurts and probably won't be aware that you are on the scene in an attempt to help. Slowly approach the animal and see what his injuries might be.

While you evaluate the extent of the dog's injuries, prepare an emergency muzzle using a necktie, belt, gauze bandage - or anything else from which such a muzzle can be fashioned. Affix it around the dog's mouth and tie it behind the head. If the dog is bleeding severely, quickly apply a pressure bandage, tie off the exposed artery, or apply a tourniquet between the wound and the dog's heart.

Broken Limbs

In the event of a broken limb, immobilize the limb to prevent bone-grating action, or the possibility of the bone protruding through the skin. Use cardboard, wood, chicken wire - whatever is immediately available. Even a couple of sticks of wood, with the aid of a belt, can be secured to a dog's limb to help immobilize it.

Creating A Stretcher

A coat can be placed on the ground to double as a stretcher and as a means of keeping the dog warm while he's being transported to the nearest veterinary clinic. Please lift the dog as gently as possible. This is extremely important in the event that internal injuries are present.

The primary concern in the event of an auto accident should be the presence of shock and internal injuries; therefore, speed, and an absolute minimum of lost motion is essential if a dog's life is to be saved. Broken legs and external injuries are relatively unimportant in the beginning, and saving the dog's life comes first.

No Food Or Water

One of the first things a person usually wants to do when aiding an injured animal is to give it food or water - perhaps as a way of reassuring the dog. This, however, should not be done since it could aggravate any possible internal injuries. A chain reaction of vomiting and further internal bleeding from severe vomiting spasms could then be brought on.

Every dog owner should become aware of the necessary steps in administering first aid. First aid - promptly administered - can save a dog's life... and who knows, it may just be your own dog! But always remember, first aid, by itself, is no substitute for professional veterinary care. First aid is emergency aid, and does not replace the need for professional attention.